EPDM rubber service gaskets for windows - Technolog, wholesaler of window and door accessories

Service gaskets for windows - EPDM rubber

Gaskets for servicing and resealing older windows. EPDM rubber - resistant to UV, ozone and frost, still springy where the old gasket has long given up.

After a dozen or so years the gasket in a window hardens, shrinks and stops closing the gap. The window starts to draw, the glass mists up and heating bills rise in winter. Replacing just the gasket costs a fraction of a new window and in most cases is entirely enough to restore the seal.

We supply service gaskets for PVC, aluminium and timber joinery - for windows and doors. We match them to the specific profile, from a piece of the old gasket or a photo of the groove cross-section.

Rebate gasket (with sealing lip)

The main service gasket - it runs around the sash and closes the window

The rebate gasket sits in the groove of the frame or sash and, once the window is closed, its lip is pressed against the rebate face. It decides whether the window draws. In service work it is the one replaced most often - it takes the most load and loses its spring first.

It is held in the profile by an anchor foot, commonly called a fir-tree foot. The foot is pressed into the groove, so the gasket needs neither adhesive along its whole length nor the sash to be removed.

What we look at when choosing

What we look at when choosing
FeatureWhat it determines
Foot width Must match the groove in the profile - it decides whether the gasket stays put
Lip height (G) Sets the pressure and whether the window closes without resistance
Hardness About 60-70 Sh A - soft enough to seal, springy enough to recover its shape
Colour Black, grey, beige, brown, golden oak

Ask for a quote - Rebate gasket (with sealing lip)

Glazing gasket (with hollow bulb)

It works between the glass and the glazing bead

The glazing profile has a hollow bulb that presses against the pane once the bead is fitted. This keeps the glass off the bare profile, stops it rattling and prevents rainwater getting under the bead.

The bulb has to match the clearance between glass and profile. Too soft and it will not hold pressure; too hard and the glazing bead will not click into place.

Ask for a quote - Glazing gasket (with hollow bulb)

Mullion gasket (hollow-chamber)

Hollow-chamber profile with a sealing wedge - for mullions and structural couplers

The mullion gasket has a deep base with air chambers and a sealing wedge running upwards. The chambers make the gasket compress evenly along its whole length, while the wedge closes the joint between two structural members.

Locating wings on either side of the base stop the gasket twisting in the groove as it is pressed in.

Ask for a quote - Mullion gasket (hollow-chamber)

Material

Why EPDM rubber rather than ordinary rubber

EPDM stands for ethylene propylene diene monomer. It is a synthetic rubber that has replaced older rubber compounds and soft PVC in window gaskets.

The difference only shows after years. EPDM does not crumble under UV or ozone, does not harden in frost and does not stretch permanently under the pressure of the sash. It works roughly between -40 °C and +90 °C, so neither winter frost nor a sun-heated frame changes its properties. Typical hardness for window gaskets is around 60-70 Sh A.

An old gasket that does not spring back under finger pressure, is flattened along its whole length or cracks when bent is due for replacement. That is the most common cause of a leaky window - more common than worn hardware.

Cross-sections of EPDM window gaskets - hollow-chamber mullion profile, glazing profile with bulb, and rebate profile as fitted

What you can replace yourself

The rebate gasket - without removing the sash or the glass

The rebate gasket, the one running around the sash, can be replaced without any special tools. Scissors and a flat screwdriver are enough.

Pull the old gasket out of the groove by hand, starting at a corner. Wipe the groove dry to clear dust and remnants of old rubber. Press the new gasket in by its foot, again from the top corner, and work your way round. Never stretch the gasket - lay it in loosely, because a stretched gasket will shrink over time and expose the corners. Cut it with a small allowance only once the whole perimeter is laid, and join the ends butt to butt with a drop of rubber adhesive.

What is better left alone: the glazing gasket, because it means taking off the glazing bead and it is easy to loosen the glazing in the process, and gaskets in aluminium windows and hollow-chamber constructions. For that sort of work it is worth calling a fitter.

We describe it step by step in our guides.

Ask for a quote - What you can replace yourself

Contact

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